Houston’s Odometer 2479
Kamiah, Idaho
Pretty ride down Lochsa River (must paddle it some time.) , but way too many trucks to dodge and way too much afternoon wind blowing up the canyon. Settled into the Clearwater-12 motel by 3:30 with plenty of time for laundry and chilling. Great Mexican restaurant dinner. We all commented on the massive portions, and then ate everything in sight.
Houston’s Odometer 2419
Wilderness Gateway USFS Campground, Clearwater National Forest, Idaho
Quote of the day:
“War is made to take something not your own.”
Yellow Wolf, of the Nimiipu Nation
We rode up and over Lolo Pass in the morning. Not nearly as hard as Rogers Pass a few days back. Real nice Visitor Center at Pass. Screaming downhill for several miles, then gradual downhill for another 45 miles. Headwinds slowed us down a bit, but still a pretty easy day.
Saw many bicyclists today, all heading East. As we are now short timers, we felt qualified to opine about their chances of finishing. Many looked very heavily laden given the haul up the two passes that we just went through. (We rule, they drool.) Some kid we saw had been on the road dfor 2 weeks from Astoria. Garrett commented that he was so frail that he would be easy to break. He was complaining about knee pains. Las Vegas does not like his chances.
Wilderness Campground was huge and very nice. Scored a very nice spot at end of loop C right on the river with plenty of room for all three tents. Garrett and I waited for our support crew for about an hour, grabbed some clean clothes and semi-bathed off two days of grunge in the river.
46d42.374,-114d32.181
Houston’s Odometer 2355
Lee Creek USFS Campground near Lolo Hot Springs , Montana
Mixed day today, with little riding, but not by design. We hung out in Missoula for the morning. G, B and D went shopping/art gallering. I went off to find a bike shop to look into my low range shifting problems. As expected, my chain was stretched beyond repair, and I replaced it. We connected around noon, grabbed lunch, and then stopped into Adventure Cycling. They greeted us with open arms, gave us ice cream, and a tour. Thanks to them all. For those who have not yet done so, join up, even if you aren’t a touring bike rider. The magazine alone is worth the dues.
We finally left Missoula at 3:00 and rode to Lolo along one of the worst piece of s#@% roads I have ever been on. The shoulder was filled with glass and metal bits. Trucks, RVs, and cars were screaming past and we were just waiting for something crappy to happen. When we turned onto 12, Garrett annouced he had a rear flat. Insult: the sealing cap on the pump that Bob had given us had gone missing, so we had no way to fix it. Fortunately, we had cell coverage and we called the crew who were still back in Missoula. It was about 45 minutes before they got out to where we were. By then, it was about 5:30 and the prospects of biking the last 25 miles seemed silly. So, we reluctantly loaded the bikes onto our new $3 bike rack and caught a ride to a campground near Lolop Hot Springs. Once there, we set up camp and I fixed tubes and got us set up for the next days ride.
46d59.603,-110d46.115
Houston’s Odometer 2339
Missoula, Montana
Met Doug (Leslie Long’s brother) and family for breakfast around 8:30 in Lincoln. Doug had emailed us about joing us for a day and this segment was a convenient one as they live in Helena, about 50 miles from Lincoln. Doug had us spooked with his sweet ride. (carbon framed specialized bike in flat black.), and he didn’t disappoint, setting a blazing pace down the hill towards Missoula. It was great having someone else to talk too, and he and Garrett kept a rolling conversation all day while I drafted them down. Even though there was a lot of weekend traffic, the shoulder was wide and it was a beatutil ride down. Further, when we got to Missoula, Doug had some insider information on this ice cream joint hidden near the river. Found a motel, reconnected with Janette and Gabby, and went out for an early dinner at the McKenzie River Pizza Company. 
Just when we finished, the ladies called us from the edge of Missoula, and we guided them to the motel. They found another brew pub to eat dinner at and we settled in for some hot showers after our diverse adventures.
Thanks to Doug, Janett
46d59.603,-110d46.115
Houston’s Odometer 2282
Lincoln, Montana
After a whopping two days of support, our much appreciated support crew abandoned us and headed to Glacier for 2 days. We caught a ride out of Great Falls and assembled the trailers roadside. We packed light, but even so it was most unwelcome to jump on the bike with the anchors again. We chose to stay on route 200 from Sims as o-p-posed to 21 and 287 through Augusta as the L and C route would have us do. We certainly saved miles, but not hills. And, to add insult, there was a cranking headwind all day long. We were pretty wiped by the time we got to Bowman’s Corner (where 287 crossed 200). We talked to some folks in the biker bar that was there (They drank Bud, we drank water.) They warned us about:
(1) Bears
(2) Hills
We told them that we knew about both of these hazards.
We didn’t see any bears, but the next 20 miles of climbing confirmed their wisdom on all things Montana. (With a Harley comes an awesome responsibility to teach and lead.)
To summarize: Roger’s Pass kicked our ass. when we eventually found it, we high fived, took a picture or two (coldest recorded temperature in the lower 48 recorded here!), and started down towards Lincoln. If not for the headwind, that would have been fun. Arrived in Lincoln around 4:30, spotted a burger and shake place and decided we needed a shake, which evolved into a burger and shake. Asked about motel accommodations, and settled on the Blue Sky as the right compromise between cheap and not too scary.
Ate dinner next door, interrupted by a massive hamstring cramp for Houston forcing him in tears out of the restaurant. Damn you Roger’s Pass!. Called Doug Gill to arrange the next day and then early to bed.
Houston’s Odometer 2282
Lincoln, Montana
After a whopping two days of support, our much appreciated support crew abandoned us and headed to Glacier for 2 days. We caught a ride out of Great Falls and assembled the trailers roadside. We packed light, but even so it was most unwelcome to jump on the bike with the anchors again. We chose to stay on route 200 from Sims as o-p-posed to 21 and 287 through Augusta as the L and C route would have us do. We certainly saved miles, but not hills. And, to add insult, there was a cranking headwind all day long. We were pretty wiped by the time we got to Bowman’s Corner (where 287 crossed 200). We talked to some folks in the biker bar that was there (They drank Bud, we drank water.) They warned us about:
(1) Bears
(2) Hills
We told them that we knew about both of these hazards.
We didn’t see any bears, but the next 20 miles of climbing confirmed their wisdom on all things Montana. (With a Harley comes an awesome responsibility to teach and lead.)
To summarize: Roger’s Pass kicked our ass. when we eventually found it, we high fived, took a picture or two (coldest recorded temperature in the lower 48 recorded here!), and started down towards Lincoln. If not for the headwind, that would have been fun. Arrived in Lincoln around 4:30, spotted a burger and shake place and decided we needed a shake, which evolved into a burger and shake. Asked about motel accommodations, and settled on the Blue Sky as the right compromise between cheap and not too scary.
Ate dinner next door, interrupted by a massive hamstring cramp for Houston forcing him in tears out of the restaurant. Damn you Roger’s Pass!. Called Doug Gill to arrange the next day and then early to bed.
Houston’s Odometer 2229
KOA Great Falls, Montana
We left the girls at the campground to finish breaking the wet camp from the night before and to hike in the area. Garrett and I started with a bombing downhill towards Monarch. Before we got there, we stopped at the Canyon Café for some candy coffee and a scone. Umm Umm good. After the caffeine, we climbed for a few miles and then bombed down again on route 89 towards Belt. (Someone should put in a lift, so that this run can be repeated without the pain of the climb.)
At Belt, we dined on PB and Bannanna sandwiches, talked to some bikers from San Diego, and then climbed the infamous Belt Hill. The road up and down towards Great Falls was most unpleasant: lots of RV and truck traffic, too many close calls, and a dubious surface. Rolled into the most over the top campground so far: “The Oasis in the Prairie.” We were debating our options (even for a tent site with 4 people, it was going to cost more than $50 because of the water park and hot tub (that only Houston used.) A Kamping Kabin was only
$20 more and provided a place to dry out the wet camping gear. The ladies showed up, and jumped on that option.
Without showering, we headed off to shop at Wal-Mart and Shelle’sb out door store and to tour the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center. (four thumbs up to that place). Returned to the KOA and made a pesto and tuna pasta meal in the Kamper Kitchen. We had to rush because there was live music in that venue that evening. We hung out and listened to the River Rounders (and did laundry). Good scene.
Where to begin? Who’s idea was this anyway? Doesn’t everyone know that alcohol, chainsaws, and Pagan Idol Worship just don’t mix?
46d59.603,-110d46.115
Houston’s Odometer 2173
Aspen Campground, Lewis and Clark National Forest, Montana
After our very long vacation from our vacation, we finally left the Long’s ranch near Lewistown and headed west. It was our first day of supported riding: read no weight to drag around. Bev and Dalis had rented a smallish SUV and we bagged the trailers and lashed them on the top. We didn’t clear Marshall and Leslie’s until almost 10:30, but made good time. We saw the ladies at Eddy’s Corner getting gas soon after we left and again in Stanford for lunch. (great burritos at the Candle Cafe). They picked us up from the highway in Ravenswood just before 4 and we drove about 25 miles into the Nat Forest to a campground. Had a delicious car camping meal.
I can not begin to tell you what a great time was had at the ranch. It was filled with trivial pursuits and some quality time-wasting. Mowing with a lethal hand operated sickle mower, horseshoes, truck fixing, bike tire rotating, parade watching, sunset walking, and burning man building: chain saw art at its finest. And eating entirely too much delicious food. I pity the fool who wasn’t there.
After nearly a week spent enjoying the hospitality of the Longs at their ranch outside of Lewistown, we’ll be leaving tomorrow morning to continue west. Dalis and Bev arrived safe and sound and they’ll be driving our stuff along, as promised, as they enjoy the surrounding areas.
A better part of this week has been spent consuming food and alcohol, riding dirt bikes, blowing things up, relaxing, and enjoying a general lack of brain cell use. At night, we walk up the hill behind the buildings to see the sun set over the vast expanse of the west and then wait for the stars to come out. At one point last night, we saw several satellites streaking across the sky at once, and the Milky Way was clearer than I’ve ever seen it before.
The afternoon of the Fourth, Chris Cahill (who was also visiting the ranch from the DC-area with his wife, Cathy) and Houston brainstormed their own Burning Man. After more work than should be allowed on a national holiday, they had him erected on the Hill (with the help of Marshall’s ‘62 Ford pick-up).
Since Dalis arrived with our laptop, I was able to sort through all of the pictures accumulated since we got into Iowa (400!). I put about 30 of them with captions here: PICTURES!
Until next time!